Expecting to step into old, enclosed Castile—lost somewhere in the 12th century—I set off for the city. A place with a special charm to lose yourself in now and then, for though the journey is tiring, it’s worth it. Eager to enjoy active tourism and live countless adventures, we headed toward the cathedral.
It’s located near Puentecillas Bridge, the oldest (dating back to Roman times), over the Carrión River (Palencia, like any self-respecting city, has its river). You can’t miss the chance to explore these historical gems—it’s undoubtedly an unforgettable experience.
Construction began in 1321 atop an ancient Romanesque cathedral, and it’s dedicated to the city’s patron saint, San Antolín. Tradition holds that the temple stands on the crypt where his remains were laid to rest (still preserved today). Behind those austere walls, you’d never expect the wealth of artistry housed within. Here, you’ll find pieces from different eras and styles, some true masterworks by the hands of Gil de Hontañón, Gil de Siloé, Simón de Colonia, Juan de Flandes, the great Pedro Berruguete, El Greco, Juan de Valmaseda... simply marvellous.
Next, we ventured into Palencia’s old town. This area boasts civil buildings of great architectural value, like the 16th-century Casa del Cordón, the 12th-century Hospital de San Bernabé, or the Bishop’s Palace, home to the Diocesan Museum. As we walked, we stumbled upon the church of Nuestra Señora de la Calle, the city’s patroness. A quick glance and a couple of photos from the Cuatro Cantones crossing led us—always racing against time—to the Church of San Miguel, with its striking fortress-tower.
Lunchtime arrived, so we seized the chance to discover the cuisine at Casa Damián. Delights to please any palate: Castilian soups, succulent roast lamb, aged cheese, and delicious fritters.
After lunch, we headed to Palencia’s Plaza Mayor, one of the city’s nerve centres. It still retains the arcaded structure of its original design, so quintessentially Castilian. Under its arches stand buildings of great architectural interest and enduring importance, like the Town Hall, the 13th-century Convent of San Francisco, and the 18th-century Church of La Soledad.
The next day, after enjoying Palencia’s nightlife, we opted to continue our urban hiking—where? Through promenades and gardens, built in the 19th century in pursuit of more rational and hygienic urban planning. This Public Health fervour gave birth to walks like El Salón, later renamed Isabel II Promenade. A vast park with clear Romantic influences, it leaves no one indifferent.
You can also stroll through Sotillo de los Canónigos Park, Huertas del Obispo, Jardinillos de la Estación, or Carcavilla... In short, in Palencia, if you’re not walking through green spaces, it’s because you don’t want to.
After a tortilla sandwich and two soft drinks, we drove toward Monte del Otero. There, crowning the summit, stands the Cristo del Otero (1931), a work by Palencia-born Victorio Macho—considered by many one of Spain’s most iconic 20th-century sculptors. The Christ, seemingly blessing the city, is visible from almost anywhere in Palencia.
Stylistically, it’s a post-Cubist piece with simple, geometric forms. Beneath the statue, carved into the hill, lies a hermitage where Victorio Macho is buried, alongside a small museum showcasing his projects.
Time to leave—finally, I can rest, but what a time I’ve had! Palencia won me over more than I’d imagined, and I thoroughly enjoyed the art and green spaces I never expected to find. The image I first had of the city and what awaited me there is nothing like the one I carry now...
