San Sebastián is that city which captivates you at first sight and keeps calling you back whenever you get the chance. The old town (despite lacking very ancient buildings due to successive fires) is absolutely stunning - undoubtedly one of the best places for active tourism.
Calle Mayor is the only street still preserving older buildings, containing the essence of historic San Sebastián. At the end of the street stands the Church of Santa María, an 18th-century building housing the Virgin of Loreto, the city's patron saint. Nearby we found the Church of San Vicente (16th century), one of San Sebastián's oldest churches built in the austere Gothic style of that era. Its facade appears to retain fortified elements, recalling the area's medieval role as a military stronghold.
The weather was our only disappointment on this trip - it played tricks on us, preventing us from seeing all of Donosti's heritage. We did however visit the San Telmo Museum, located opposite San Vicente at the foot of Urgull mountain. Its Renaissance cloister (yes, an actual cloister, as the museum is built on a former Dominican monastery) leaves no visitor indifferent.
Incidentally, if you're feeling peckish, you're in exactly the right place - Basque cuisine enjoys its well-deserved reputation. Personally, I love stopping at Urganin restaurant, but San Sebastián is packed with fantastic eateries - you just need to find them. You can even pair your gastronomic experience with some excellent wine tourism routes.
We headed to Mount Urgull, where I first beheld the Cantabrian Sea in all its glory. The Santa Cruz de la Mota Castle, an 11th-century fortress now serving as a municipal park, left both my friend and I speechless. The entire mountain has been adapted for pedestrians with numerous walking paths. We descended via Paseo Nuevo, the border between sea and land where winds blow fiercely - I nearly got swept away! But the spectacle of waves crashing against rocks makes the walk absolutely worthwhile.
And what can I say about La Concha beach that hasn't been said before? One reason we didn't see more of the city was because we spent hours on this beach: strolling, chatting, sunbathing while listening to the water... A unique beach for a unique city.
Our final evening hour was spent walking along El Boulevard, the dividing line between the Old Town and the Expansion area. Here we noted the City Hall, formerly a casino that reportedly hosted European gamblers during WWI after French casinos closed. This casino welcomed politicians, royalty, artists... Even the legendary spy Mata-Hari spent her last days in San Sebastián before facing execution in France for treason.
On our second morning, we woke eager to explore - and few places rival San Sebastián for walking. We chose the Expansion district to begin our long day... These streets showcase the dominant architectural styles of their era: Neoclassicism in the first section and Eclecticism in Amara.
In the Cortazar Expansion, bordered by Avenida de la Libertad, Paseo de la Concha and Paseo de la República Argentina, the standout is Plaza Guipúzcoa, quite similar to Plaza de la Constitución. But what truly impressed me were the Victoria Eugenia Theatre and María Cristina Hotel - exceptional landmarks. Both buildings originated from a 1909 concept by French architect Charles Meurres, sponsored by the influential "Commerce Society" that funded much of the city's early 20th-century remodelling. If these walls could talk, they'd recount spy stories, love affairs and countless political intrigues...
That afternoon we chose beachside dining - the perfect Sunday afternoon spot. Now I understand Queen María Cristina's choice of San Sebastián as the Court's holiday destination... She commissioned Miramar Palace specifically for her leisure time here. The palace is magnificent: following English models, it features parks, gardens and several outbuildings... Built over the ancient Church of San Sebastián (11th century), it once hosted pilgrims resting on the Camino de Santiago.
Back on the beach at departure time - do you now understand why I keep returning to San Sebastián? And I've still got so much to see: Moneo's "cubes", Chillida's Wind Comb sculpture, Mount Igeldo, Santa Clara Island, Gros neighbourhood... Enjoy your urban hiking, and see you on the next route!
