Western Peak 2 (3,220 m) and Western Peak 3 (3,185 m)
Itinerary 10. Renclusa Refuge - Alba Torrent - Alba Pass - Western Peaks 2 and 3 (MBEA, S3, 1,080 m)
Extreme sports offer us breathtaking landscapes and unforgettable experiences. From Renclusa, leave the Aneto and Eastern Maladeta route to the left and ascend the small valley heading east towards the pass and the Paderna peaks. Gradually turn left to enter the Alba basin and decisively tackle the steep and unavoidable Alba Pass. Once at the top, access to Western Peak 2 involves a delicate ascending traverse that may require removing your footwear. The climb to Western Peak 3, closest to the pass, is technical, with exposed and sustained granite block climbing (Grade II). Descend via the same route.
Notes: An excellent, winding, and clever itinerary crossing one of the least-known areas of the massif. Summits with guaranteed stunning views and an outstanding descent. Crossing the Alba Pass requires removing your skis. The traverse to the summit ridge also demands care. From Western Peak 2, you can easily ascend to Le Bondidier Peak, another collector's "three-thousander".
Alba Tooth (3,136 m)
Itinerary 10a. Renclusa Refuge - Alba Torrent - Alba Tooth Couloir - Alba Tooth (MBEA, S3, 1,080 m).
Follow Itinerary 10 until near the couloir leading to Alba Pass. The adjacent couloir on the right quickly leads to this charming pinnacle. Descend via the same route.
Notes: A sharp, picturesque outcrop between Western Peak 3 and Alba Peak. It can easily complement Itinerary 10. Highly interesting when combined with a descent via Paderna. The short 40-45° couloir (150-200 m) is a great showcase for fans of steep skiing (S4).
Alba Peak (3,118 m)
Itinerary 11. Renclusa Refuge - Alba Torrent - Alba Peak (MBEA, S3-S4, 978 m).
From Renclusa, leave the Aneto and Eastern Maladeta route to the left and ascend the small valley east towards the pass and the Paderna peaks. Gradually turn left into the Alba basin. After a long ascent up the valley, look for a steep glacial extension on the right, leading to Alba Peak’s ridge. Switching slopes, approach the summit as far as possible on skis. The incline and snow conditions will dictate when to proceed on foot. The summit is reached without major difficulty but via exposed terrain. Descend the same way.
Notes: Stunning views over the Ésera Valley and the Perdiguero and Posets massifs. This is the westernmost summit of the Maladeta Massif, with strong character. The ascent is more rewarding than the descent. The summit slope is extremely steep and not always in ideal condition. Skiing down is only for experts (S3-S4). If conditions allow, descent via Itinerary 13 is possible, provided you know the delicate sections well.
Itinerary 12. Benasque Hospital - Paderna Pleta Valley - Alba Peak (MBEA, S3, 1,360 m).
Shortly after the Benasque Hospital plains, ascend right through the forest towards the Paderna peaks. A steep slope with successive steps gained via sharp couloirs leads to the Maladetas side. Follow the Alba Torrent, then after a long valley ascent, locate a steep glacial extension on the right to access Alba Peak’s ridge. Switch slopes and approach the summit on skis until snow conditions advise continuing on foot. The peak is reached without major difficulty but via exposed terrain. Descend the same way.
Notes: An excellent route for both the tough ascent and the thrilling, direct descent, guaranteed to pump your adrenaline. It can also serve as a traverse to Renclusa Refuge. The Paderna side is highly avalanche-prone and strongly discouraged in unstable snow.
Itinerary 13. Benasque Hot Springs - Alba Valley - Alba Peak (MBEA, S3, 1,438 m).
Follow the track from Benasque Hot Springs north to a narrow torrent to ascend. After a strenuous effort, you can put on skis and enter Alba Valley after crossing a false pass. Ascend to the end, tackling varied slopes. A notable step, climbed on the left, leads to the base of the summit slope. Remove skis again to reach the top. Descend the same way.
Notes: A demanding, rarely frequented route through narrow, wild terrain. The first 500 m often lack sufficient or stable snow. The upper Alba Valley is highly skiable. Dramatic scenery below the Crest of the 14 Gendarmes. Thorough knowledge of the area is essential—summer reconnaissance is advised.
Tuc de Molières (3,010 m)
Itinerary 14. Renclusa Refuge - Aigualluts Plan - Molières Peak (BE, S3, 1,090 m).
From behind the refuge, head west to quickly ascend Renclusa Pass. Descend to Aigualluts Plan, cross it, and enter a narrow gully leading to Escaleta Valley. Gently curve right (avoid overshooting into the Barrancs Peak gully) and follow the terrain without major difficulty. Near Mulleres Peak’s base, choose between a direct ascent or the ridge gap left of the peak, then proceed on foot. Descend the same way.
Notes: Ideal for experiencing high-mountain winter without major difficulty, with generally moderate slopes and stunning panoramas. Starting from Benasque Hospital avoids the Renclusa Pass "siphon" but makes for a long day (1,430 m).
Itinerary 15. Vielha Tunnel South Entrance (Vielha Hospital) - Molières Peak - Vielha Tunnel North Entrance (MBEA, S3, 1,384 m).
Head west from the tunnel’s south entrance along a marked glacial valley. A sustained climb leads to the bivouac refuge. An ascending diagonal traverse reaches the gap north of Mulleres Peak, gained on foot. From here, a straightforward block ridge leads left to Molières Peak. The descent follows a traverse on the Aragonese side to Alfred Pass, then a wild, memorable descent through Vall de Nère. A series of gullies and slopes lead to a final flat stretch and the road near the tunnel’s north entrance.
Notes: A committing, beautiful route exposed to avalanches. The descent is outstanding. Returning the same way is less interesting than the proposed traverse.
Traverses.
Combining the above itineraries allows numerous options. Below are two major traverses.
Itinerary 16. Three Passes Traverse (MBEA, S3, 1,887 m).
From Renclusa Refuge, a circular traverse crosses Alba, Cregüeña, and Coronas Passes, visiting the main glaciers and valleys around Aneto (which can also be climbed). A gruelling but extraordinary traverse. Access to Cregüeña Pass (north of Aragüells Peak) is awkward and delicate. For the rest, consult Itineraries 10, 6, and 7.
Itinerary 17. High Route (MBEA, S3-S4, 3,476 m ascent, 3,891 m descent).
From Llauset, ascend Vallibierna and descend Culebras Couloir to the forest refuge (Itineraries 2 and 1). Connect to Aneto via Coronas (Itinerary 6), descend to Aigualluts (Itinerary 8), then climb Molières Peak and descend into Vall d'Aran (Itineraries 14 and 15). Can be split into stages with nights at Vallibierna and Renclusa. Requires high technical and physical skill. Car logistics must be planned.
