Introduction
Skiing in Zermatt means immersing yourself in an unparalleled Alpine panorama, gliding down slopes surrounded by the giants of the Alps, including the famous Matterhorn; the Monte Rosa massif, which at 4,634 m is the true "roof of Switzerland", or the Mischabel range, where—among so many towering peaks—it’s almost a footnote that we find Europe’s highest cable car, ascending to the Klein Matterhorn, the Matterhorn’s little brother, taking us to heights of over 3,800 metres.
Zermatt Overview
The glaciers at its feet allow for year-round skiing. No wonder this ski resort belongs to the exclusive "Best of the Alps" club and, despite its fame and not being the cheapest, remains one of Switzerland’s most popular.
Zermatt offers modern, efficient facilities and an exclusive, international atmosphere, while preserving much of the charm of a traditional high-Valais mountain village, with its wooden chalets. Combustion-engine cars are banned here, with electric buses, taxis, or horse-drawn carriages being the norm.
The local gastronomy boasts a range of quality restaurants, and numerous rustic eateries with terraces—often perched beside slopes descending to Zermatt—invite you to savour regional dishes before continuing downhill. While skiing beneath four-thousanders, remember this is where one of classical mountaineering’s most dramatic chapters unfolded: the tragic battle to conquer the Matterhorn, relics of which can still be seen in the town’s Alpine Museum. Wandering its corners, you can still feel echoes of mountaineering’s golden age.
The Ski Area
Zermatt’s ski domain spans 164 km of slopes, between 1,620 and 3,820 metres, divided into three sectors: Sunnegga-Blauherd-Rothorn (1,620–3,103 m), Gornergrat-Stockhorn (1,620–3,405 m), and Schwarzsee-Trockener Steg-Klein Matterhorn (1,620–3,820 m).
One quick way to reach the slopes is the Alpine Metro, an underground funicular whisking you to Sunnegga (2,290 m) in minutes, above the treeline. From there, gondolas continue to Blauherd (2,571 m), where you can strap on skis or ride the cable car to Rothorn’s summit (3,103 m).
At Rothorn, expect mostly intermediate (red) runs; those descending to Blauherd offer stunning high-mountain vistas. Taking the Fluhalp piste to Gant links to Gornergrat-Stockhorn. Returning to Blauherd, an easy run leads to Sunnegga, or test the aptly named Paradise piste, descending to Findeln.
The return to Zermatt—whether via the easy Tuftern run or challenging National FIS—promises a long, varied descent. Both lower sections wind through forests, merging at Patrullarve, where a chairlift returns to Blauherd if you’re not done yet.
The historic Gornergratbahn cogwheel train departs from town, ascending past 3,000 m to the Gorner ridge station amid glacial wilderness—a must for visitors. The train snakes through Riffelalp-Riffelberg’s forests, gaining altitude as the Matterhorn and icy giants loom ever larger.
Gornergrat-Stockhorn has the most beginner-friendly (blue) runs, concentrated around sunny Riffelberg and Riffelalp. Conversely, Hohtälli-Stockhorn—reached by cable car from Gornergrat—has some of the region’s toughest descents. Experts will relish Triftji or Gant’s steep, mogul-filled slopes. Solid technique and well-tuned shocks are advised.
The full descent from Gornergrat to Zermatt via Riffelbord and Riffelalp is easy but long, with panoramic views centred on the omnipresent Matterhorn. Alternatively, from Gornergrat or Hohtälligrat, Breitenboden (Kelle and White Hare pistes) leads to Riffelalp or the challenging runs below Rote Nase—both rewarding routes to quieter terrain.
To reach Schwarzsee-Trockener Steg-Klein Matterhorn (Zermatt’s largest sector), ski Riffelalp-Schweigmatten to Furi, then take cable cars to Furgg (2,432 m), Schwarzsee (2,583 m), or Trockener Steg (2,939 m). Or ride the bus to Furi’s gondola station.
Furgg-Schwarzsee offers varied, enjoyable slopes on the Matterhorn’s flanks, mostly intermediate. Technical runs with mogul sections like Garten await experts. The Matterhornpiste from Furggsattel (3,365 m) beneath the Matterhorn’s east face is a highlight. The descent to Zermatt via Furgg has steep, narrow stretches before rewarding you with a terrace-side break.
Trockener Steg is the gateway to this sector’s highest reaches. The cable car to Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) is Zermatt’s skiing pinnacle. An elevator completes the ascent from the tunnel. The summit overlooks Zermatt’s valley, ringed by four-thousanders, with equally stunning Italian vistas. Remember: at nearly 4,000 m, it’s frigid even under clear skies.
The descent to Trockener Steg is straightforward with good snow and visibility—wide glacial runs invite sweeping turns to savour the views. Lifts return you to the glacier’s heights via Theodulpass and Testa Grigia.
The Plateau Rosa, skiable year-round, is shared with Italy’s Breuil-Cervinia. Another 100 km of slopes await there, but lifts aren’t covered by Zermatt’s pass. Consider a Klein Matterhorn-Cervinia pass for a day or two—priced like Zermatt’s full-area pass.
Off-Piste
Off-piste enthusiasts will find two routes from Sunnegga-Rothorn—Chamois and Marmotte—descending Rothorn’s summit to Tuftern. Hohtälli-Stockhorn’s north-facing slopes often have better snow. Highlights include a variant of White Hare’s initial section (Hohtälli to Breitboden) and Mittelritz’s route to Gant or Grünsee. Stockhorn-Rote Nase’s steep terrain also offers unmarked off-piste options.
In Schwarzsee-Klein Matterhorn, while no marked routes exist, virgin snow skiing is possible around Schwarzsee-Hörnli. Avoid protected woodland and heed avalanche warnings.
Après-Ski
Each sector has ample refuelling options, from self-service cafés with panoramic terraces to charming family-run spots. Zum See, on the Schwarzsee-Furgg descent, is a standout. Detour to Findeln and Ried’s hamlets on Blauherd’s runs.
Rest Stops
If skiing Stockhorn-Hohtälli in good weather, the Rote Nase kiosk’s terrace offers drinks with views of Monte Rosa’s icy flows. Or picnic slope-side with a packed sandwich.
Post-Skiing
End the day at a slope-side rustic bar or restaurant. If energy remains, try the ice rink, curling, tennis, or squash (indoor courts available).
Prefer relaxation? A horse-drawn sleigh ride or guided village walk (starting mid-afternoon) fits the bill. The Alpine Museum delves into Zermatt’s dramatic climbing history. Dining ranges from gourmet restaurants to traditional mountain fare.
Nightlife
Zermatt’s bars and clubs—like the Walliserkanne (restaurant-cum-disco)—round off the evening.
Ski Mountaineering
While Zermatt’s regular skiing is superb, its ski touring opportunities are near-limitless. Zermatt is a stage on the Haute Route, the classic Western Alps traverse from Chamonix (Mont Blanc) to Saas Fee. From mountain huts along this route, technically manageable ascents of four-thousanders await those skilled in ski touring.
Classic climbs include the Breithorn (4,164 m)—one of the Alps’ most accessible four-thousanders, near Klein Matterhorn. Nearby, Castor and Pollux offer tougher excursions. Another classic is Monte Rosa from its namesake hut, ending at Silbersattel (4,500+ m), followed by a 2,000 m glacial descent (plus 1,200 m on Riffelberg’s pistes, conditions permitting).
Eastward lie Strahlhorn (4,190 m), Allalinhorn (4,027 m), and Alphubel (4,206 m). Strahlhorn is accessible from Zermatt (via Adlerpass) or Saas Fee (Britannia Hut); the latter two are traditionally climbed from Saas Fee. Guided tours and helicopter-skiing (Heli-Skiing) are available (Alpin-Center: +41 (0)27 966 24 60; Air Zermatt: +41 (0)27 966 86 86).
Cross-Country Skiing
Zermatt has a 7 km trail in Furi–Schweigmatten and a longer one (12–15 km) between Täsch and Randa.
