Ski Mountaineering in the Alps

The Alpine landscapes offer countless adventure sports, with ski touring being a favourite among winter sports enthusiasts. High-altitude routes abound in the Alps, but the ultimate classic is the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt, extending to Saas Fee.

A medium-skilled group typically takes four and a half days to complete the classic Chamonix-Zermatt route. However, the mountain charm is slightly interrupted by the need for a taxi from Champex to Verbier, followed by ski lifts at the ski resort to reach Mont-Fort Hut.

The proposed itinerary crosses the heart of the Haute Route, showcasing the finest Swiss Alpine scenery. A standard group can complete it in 2–3 days. Advance bookings for mountain huts (called "cabanes" locally, though far from rustic) are essential. Glacier travel precautions apply.

Despite being popular among ski mountaineers (particularly on the Dix-Col de Vallpeline section), poor visibility or weather can make this high-altitude terrain treacherous due to crevasses. The optimal season runs from March to May.

Starting point: Arolla (1,990 m), accessible via the stunning Evolène Valley (routes: Geneva-Lausanne-Sion or Chamonix-Martigny-Sion).

Stage 1: Arolla to Dix Hut (970 m ascent)

From Arolla, head WSW towards Pas de Chèvres (2,855 m) – a straightforward route with minimal navigation challenges. Descend via vertical metal ladders onto Cheillon Glacier, shortly reaching Cabane des Dix (2,928 m).

These dramatic ladders are secure but carry a rope for group members prone to vertigo. Nearby to the north lies Riedmatten Pass, used by the Patrouille des Glaciers – the world’s largest ski mountaineering race. This unequipped alternative is higher and more technical than Pas de Chèvres, the winter’s fastest access to Dix Hut.

Stage 2: Dix Hut to Vignettes Hut (875 m ascent)

A short but spectacular stage via the traverse’s high point: Pigne d’Arolla. The panoramic view of Alpine 4,000ers – from Mont Blanc to Monte Rosa, including the Matterhorn – is breathtaking.

Depart the hut SE across Cheillon Glacier, skirting below Tsena Refien ridge. Ascend glacial basins to the iconic Serpentine Wall passage (ski blades/crampons may be needed depending on conditions). Easier terrain leads past Col de Breney to Pigne d’Arolla’s summit.

Descend south from the summit before turning east across moderate slopes. The arrival at Vignettes Hut – perched like an eagle’s nest – is unforgettable.

Stage 3: Vignettes Hut to Bertol Hut – Arolla (1,240 m ascent excluding summit bids)

Scout the hut exit beforehand to avoid dangerous eastern slopes (icy or loaded with snow). An early start is essential for this long stage. The initial descent (100 m drop over 1 km) is typically done without ski skins. From Col de Chermotane (3,067 m), head SE towards Col de l’Èvêque (3,392 m). After another descent, a steeper ascent tests your kick-turn technique en route to Col du Mont Brulé (3,213 m).

From this col, descend Tsa de Tsan Glacier below Bouquetins Ridge to 3,160 m. A gentle climb follows, with Dent d’Hérens and the Matterhorn dominating the skyline, until reaching Col de Valpelline (3,568 m) – the area’s most awe-inspiring viewpoint. Strong climbers may detour to Tête de Valpelline (worthwhile for summit vistas).

From Col de Valpelline, easily gain Col de la Tête Blanche, climb to 3,650 m, then proceed to Col de Bertol. A sub-100m push reaches Tête Blanche’s summit (recommended if time/energy allow). Descend to 3,230 m; the col (≈3,280 m) lies 800m ahead. If time permits, watch the Dent Blanche glow red at sunset – spending the night at Bertol Hut is a worthy luxury. Leave skis at the col; a 30m chain-assisted climb accesses the hut.

The descent from Col de Bertol is steep and avalanche-prone. The passage between Plans de Bertol and Arolla’s Lower Glacier requires caution. Follow the glacier back to your starting point.