Perched 1,000 metres above sea level, Serranillos occupies a tiny patch on the map, dotted with a mix of rustic houses, mountains, and gorges randomly placed across the green blanket covering this beautiful village. Perhaps that’s why it’s been christened with a name that any of its nooks and crannies do justice to. The 400-odd villagers can lose themselves in the winding streets circling the heart of this southern Gredos enclave. But before setting foot here, we wanted to make it even more special... don’t just stand there to find out...
That morning was overcast. I still remember the scent of damp earth as I took a deep breath, still in Madrid, just in time to take the road that would lead us to our destination, where we’d begin a spectacular route.
My companions were thrilled by the trip I’d proposed, as I knew the secrets hidden in this part of Ávila well. They wanted to visit as soon as possible; so, without hesitation, we decided to start our adventure, guided by the mystery of what awaited us with open arms.
Along the way, fast curves with occasional changes in gradient dominate the descent from Navas del Rey to Pelayos de la Presa, where a stunning stretch through the pine forests surrounding the San Juan and Picadas reservoirs smiles at us as we pass. Despite the early hour, we couldn’t afford to stop and admire every corner of the Sierra de Gredos. However, a quick pitstop in El Tiemblo is a must—where every house becomes a tiny private market.
As we journeyed on, the curves multiplied, and a marvellous landscape unfolded before us. The stony horizon we’d glimpsed earlier now turned blue, reflecting the scarce sunbeams daring to appear. This is the Burguillo Reservoir, a little paradise to offload the week’s accumulated stress. For locals, it’s the heart of the Alberche, one of the classic rivers. And they’re doing it proud—this river rises in the heart of the Sierra de Gredos and forms the so-called Alberche Valley, home to well-known towns like Hoyocasero, Navaluenga, and Burgohondo.
Its three sections make the Alberche ideal for kayaking, whether you’re experienced, a beginner, or just starting out. That’s our surprise: inviting you to share our experience that day. And we’d do it at Trampalones, a perfect spot to learn kayaking, gear up, and, of course, immerse yourself in nature.
But we’d only set sail, as—with no experience—the idea of tackling a difficult stretch nearly terrified us. So, we opted for the gentler descent route. Neither too much nor too little water flow allows for white-water rafting, though from mid-June to late November, descent is impossible due to insufficient flow.
After a long day wrestling with the rebellious foam of the rapids, we were exhausted—but it was worth it, no doubt. What we needed now was a well-earned rest, a good meal, and pleasant company. For that, we turned to one of the Sierra de Gredos’ oases: Serranillos, a charming village nestled gracefully between the Paramera and the Tiétar Valley, smiling from the famous pass bearing its name—dared by bold cyclists yearly.
Serranillos lives up to its name thanks to the towering sierras and mountains encircling, decorating, and defining its people. But what history books and promotional leaflets miss—for this village at 1,000 metres—is the scent hanging in the air as you approach. Despite the darkening sky, we admired the two landmarks governing the area: El Cabezo and La Picota, a beloved peak the villagers are fiercely proud of—rare to find one who hasn’t climbed it.
With such pleasant weather and gulps of fresh air, our appetites awakened. Luckily, we were in the right place—the village’s many restaurants serve delicious lamb, suckling pig, and all kinds of tapas.
The first sunbeams greeted us in Serranillos. We were privileged—the cottage we’d chosen let us admire the grandeur of the land unfolding before us. Its valley, picturesque foothills, rugged gorges—all were awe-inspiring here, in the heart of the sierra. After freshening up, we strolled the cobbled streets. It was Sunday, when villagers and weekend visitors gather for aperitifs—but it was still early. A walk through the valley’s greenest spots wouldn’t hurt.
Nothing goes to waste—least of all the food. Naturally, the best way to dive into the essence of mountain cuisine is to try the most local products. What better way than being invited by a local? Two kind elderly folk, seeing our enthusiasm, took us home to try one of the best meals I’ve ever had.
A curious black pudding—unique to the area, according to the elderly woman—kicked off our appetite. A hearty plate of "patatas revolconas," slow-cooked over the fireplace, and a tasting of local cured meats crowned that day’s feast. Luckily, it was peppered with the couple’s anecdotes—like how the narrow alley outside was once a stream that swelled alarmingly in rainy seasons.
This couple’s kindness reminded us that authenticity lies deep in our roots. You needn’t go far—everything’s within reach if you seize it. So, we made the most of that afternoon: a coffee in the square... and behind us, Serranillos, where adventure tourism surprised us in the best way.
