Introduction
Practising extreme sports allows you to discover incredible places. The Vignemale has been and remains one of the most iconic and renowned mountains in the range. Despite the massif's great beauty and its wild surroundings, it's no exaggeration to say its fame stems from the inaccessible nature of its north face - truly fearsome in winter and the setting for some of the most admired mountaineering feats. The north face of Pique Longue and, above all, the prodigious Couloir de Gaube are two prime symbols of classic Pyrenean mountaineering difficulty and remain coveted objectives to this day.
While it's fair to say the massif presents two starkly contrasting aspects - behind the astonishing verticality of Pitón Carré, Punta Chausenque or Pique Longue lies a bright, welcoming face: the Ossoue Glacier. Its characteristic horseshoe shape, suspended above valleys and clouds and crowned by a string of 3000m peaks, is clearly visible from distant summits like those in the Aran and Pallars valleys. This vast snowfield, the largest along with Maladeta, is broad and luminous, seeming expressly crafted by the Pyrenean goddess for ski mountaineering.
In any case, ascents for those wanting to go skiing on Vignemale's summits are no trivial matter. To reach the best-preserved glacier in the Pyrenees and enjoy its magnificent conditions requires climbing through deep valleys and traversing steep slopes. Undoubtedly the complexity of access routes, isolation, avalanche risk and the massif's altitude are the main objective factors that make Vignemale a highly respectable mountain in winter and its ascent a true test for any alpinist.
Vignemale Description
The Vignemale lies in French territory, within the Bigorre region and very close to the Cirque de Gavarnie. Access from Spain is laborious and complex, requiring approach via the Ara Valley or from Panticosa after crossing several passes. The clearly advisable approach should be from the French side, though this involves a not inconsiderable road journey that, let's be honest, adds another difficulty.
Once this is overcome, you enter the massif either via the Gaube Valley from Cauterets or the Ossoue Valley from Gavarnie. Both approaches, which the GR trail follows in summer, are possible with ski mountaineering equipment, the former being more recommendable early season. The Ossoue Valley, regularly exposed to major avalanches, becomes a good route by spring, allowing a dignified end to the season.
Both sides have good mountain huts, unstaffed in winter with open dormitory areas. These are the classic Gaube and Bayssellance refuges. Both allow splitting ascents into two stages or linking traverses to Marcadau and Gavarnie mountains respectively. While providing good shelter, the lack of guardians can create either a sense of vulnerability in midwinter or serious overcrowding in peak season.
Climate
The region typically accumulates the deepest snow in the entire Pyrenees. The fierce Atlantic storms collide violently with the range's first 3000m peaks and generously deposit their white bounty. This geoclimatic characteristic gives the area special ruggedness while offering endless possibilities for mountain skiing. The flipside is the great danger posed by sudden weather changes and low temperatures - factors that collectively increase route severity and lend greater prestige to winter ascents.
Particular mention must be made of the frequency and scale of avalanches in the region. Three specific areas stand out for their danger:
- From Gaube, the approach to Hourquette d'Ossoue, whether directly or traversing below the Hourquette ridges, demands caution.
- Also steep and exposed is the traverse from Bayssellance refuge to the glacier above Bellevue caves, following the summer route. Only attempt in excellent conditions; otherwise it's wiser to descend about 200m to find more favourable terrain for ascending to the glacier's moraine.
- The third and most hazardous, which has already claimed lives, is ascending the entire Ossoue gorge. Its narrowness and length make it a death trap, while its high walls prevent assessing snow quantity and stability higher up. Travelling through with fresh or unstable snow is utterly reckless.
Other fearsome phenomena include storms and fog. Poor visibility makes navigation especially difficult in open terrain, becoming critical when converging on narrow, unavoidable passages as happens here. Vignemale isn't a mountain for improvising descents or shortcuts, so maximising prevention of these hazards is strongly advised.
The Massif's Potential
While being suitable - even classic - for ski ascents, Vignemale offers neither great diversity nor numerous possibilities. In this it differs markedly from the Maladetas, perhaps its direct rival in fame and appeal. Ten 3000m peaks comprise the massif - eight around the aforementioned Ossoue glacier and two more distant (Tapou and Milleu) marking the transition towards Ordesa-Gavarnie summits.
Excepting these last two with their distinct routes, the massif's abrupt topography funnels ski mountaineering itineraries along a single axis - the link between Gaube and Ossoue via Hourquette d'Ossoue. From the glacier, you can then choose your objective. These are variations on a theme: while some peaks like Pic de Cerbillona can be summited practically on skis, others like Pique Longue or Pic du Clot de la Hount will almost certainly require crampons and a rope. Yet 85% of all ascents share the same approach.
Any proposed ascent offers stark contrasts between the valley's dark depths and the sweeping panoramas from the peaks. The Gaube Valley route starts at low altitude, taking you directly from lush vegetation to the desolate world of rock and snow. Reaching Hourquette d'Ossoue is majestic, broadening your horizon to familiar peaks after hours staring at the north face. Meanwhile the Ossoue Valley route is partly gloomy, threading a narrow corridor before suddenly opening onto the glacier's grandeur. There, views of Taillón, Brèche de Roland and cirque summits intensify the sensation of having emerged from Earth's very bowels.
Another fascinating way to explore the massif is through ski touring. From Panticosa, Respomuso or the nearer Wallon refuge, you can access Gaube. Completing circular tours by ascending the colossus makes for unforgettable ski days unmatched anywhere in the range.
