Traditional whisky distilleries, tartan kilts, and bagpipers are ambassadors of legendary Scotland, but not the only ones. Scapa Flow, a remote 190-square-kilometre area on the northern coast, significantly represents the country in terms of diving, thanks to the concentration of sunken ships located there.
The natural harbour of Scapa Flow, surrounded by the Orkney Islands, was the British Navy's main base during both World Wars. Besides hosting Europe's largest shipwreck collection, Orkney boasts abundant marine life and exceptional water clarity. Thus, it’s no surprise these islands appeal to wreck enthusiasts, marine biologists, and photographers alike.
Marwick Head
During the 1918 armistice at the end of World War I, the German fleet was interned at Scapa while awaiting the signing of a peace treaty. After a year of isolation, Admiral Ludwig von Reuter, believing peace negotiations had failed and that his ships would be seized by the British Navy, ordered their scuttling.
Post-war, extensive salvage operations took place between 1929 and 1939 to recover these ships. Of the original German fleet, only three battleships remain: the Kronprinz Wilhelm, the König, and the Markgraf—each 177 metres long—alongside four small cruisers: the Dresden, Brummer, Köln, and Karlsruhe. These wrecks lie at depths of 24 to 45 metres, with visibility ranging from 10 to 15 metres.
One of the greatest advantages of diving in Scapa Flow is the depth. The deepest warship wreck, the Markgraf, rests at 46 metres. There are also block ships, which, due to their specific mission, lie at much shallower depths, just metres below the surface. Thus, Orkney offers dives spanning these extremes. The deepest vessel is the John Thornton boat at 63 metres, recently sunk for Trimix training purposes.
The Kronprinz Wilhelm, launched in Kiel in 1914 and a sister ship to the König and Markgraf, is the largest battleship ever seen. Its size (177 metres long) and depth (34–39 metres) demand caution from divers. Its structure resembles an aircraft carrier. Of the three battleships, it’s the best preserved, despite some detonation damage, particularly in the engine room.
The König, launched in Wilhelmshaven in 1914, had three turbines enabling speeds of 23 knots. The colossal weight of its superstructure—with five main turrets and guns—led to its sinking at 39 metres after flooding.
The Markgraf, the deepest and most awe-inspiring wreck, was launched in Bremen in 1913. Equipped with ten guns across five turrets and five submerged torpedoes, it now lies at 46 metres, offering the most memorable dive. The ascent is slow, and narcosis poses a potential risk.
Light Cruisers in Scapa Flow
The Dresden, built in Kiel, remains fully intact, with many original artefacts still in place. It rests between 28 and 38 metres and teems with marine life, especially sponges and starfish on its shallower sections.
The Brummer, lying at 32–36 metres, could reach 28 knots and was designed to mine Allied shipping routes. Experts agree this photogenic wreck is Scapa Flow’s finest. Its control tower is instantly recognisable. Due to its decay, divers are advised not to enter the ship. The main superstructure remains intact, with guns still positioned aft, while the rudder lies on the seabed.
The Köln, built in Hamburg, rests at 30–35 metres and is relatively intact save for a hole in the stern.
The Karlsruhe lies at just 24 metres. Its shallow exposure to storms has left it deteriorated, yet its depth ensures rich marine life, making it an intriguing dive.
The Scuttling of Block Ships by Churchill’s Order
These ships were sunk during both World Wars to block channels between the four islands guarding Scapa Flow. It was believed their sinking would render the channels unnavigable, protecting the British fleet from enemy submarines and ships. Yet, in October 1939, a German vessel bypassed the block ships and torpedoed the mighty Royal Oak. In just five minutes, the battleship sank, claiming 833 lives. Today, this wreck is a designated war grave and off-limits to divers.
In response, Sir Winston Churchill ordered barriers built across the four channels for effective blockade. Constructed by Italian POWs in Orkney, these barriers now mitigate strong swells.
Among the block ships, several sunk in Burra Sound (western Scapa Flow) stand out. Powerful currents there ensure stunning visibility and thriving marine life. These are the only wrecks where avid divers can fully explore the interiors.
Notable is the Tabarka, built in Rotterdam. Two hull breaches grant access to boiler and engine rooms. Currents in Burra Sound require dives only in calm conditions.
The Tabarka resembles a cathedral, with light streaming through hatches. Interior visibility rivals tropical waters.
The Inverlane, another block ship, lies at Burra Sound’s entrance (15 metres deep). Its decayed mast is draped in tri-coloured anemones, while starfish adorn its superstructure. Jellyfish and occasional seals appear in the gloom.