As you know, staying balanced on a surfboard is very easy... if you're on dry land!
Attempting the same exercise in choppy water, amidst waves crashing unpredictably onto the shore... that's another story!
This is why starting to surf may seem difficult at first and might even disappoint you during the initial lessons. The best way is to learn by taking surfing lessons: your progress will be faster and safer than learning alone.
If you decide to attend a surfing lesson for the first time, you'll notice that learning to surf begins on the sand: learning to lie on the board, paddle, and then stand up. This is what's called the Take off:
- Paddling helps catch the wave. The movement resembles the crawl stroke in swimming, but with a stronger emphasis on the final part of the motion.
- Standing up is trickier: body, hand, and foot positioning, as well as your centre of gravity, are crucial. You'll need balance, coordination, agility, and speed to stand up in one fluid motion while accounting for all these factors.
Step 1:
While lying down, your centre of gravity should be at the board's midpoint. Paddle towards the wave, about 10 metres ahead of it, until you feel the board glide slightly faster than your paddling speed. That's your cue to stand up!
See an example below.
As you’ll have gathered, you must stand up in one go, landing both feet on the board simultaneously! It's important to execute the movement correctly and avoid developing bad habits.
Without sinking the board, place your hands flat near your upper chest.
Step 2:
Once standing, ensure your feet are positioned correctly: not too close together, nor too far apart. Knees should be slightly bent, and your body should remain flexible.
Step 3:
Keep your body perpendicular to the board, without leaning forward or backward. Your centre of gravity must stay at the board's midpoint.
Step 4:
Pay attention to the wave's movement and try to follow it, all while maintaining balance by looking straight ahead.
On paper, it sounds simple, but it will take several hours to master these initial movements. Expect a few wipeouts, and maybe even swallowing some seawater before successfully standing up.
The movements must be repeated many times until they become second nature for the beginning surfer.
The most important thing is to show great motivation and perseverance.
Yumping.fr encourages you to try this activity on the beaches this summer, and we look forward to seeing your surfing videos!
