He currently works as a mountain guide through his company Ponce de León Expeditions and as a mountain cameraman for various national and international firms. He continues to practise mountaineering and climbing, taking on incredible personal challenges that add to his extensive résumé of ascents on some of the world's highest peaks.
Yumping Mexico - When was your first mountain ascent?
Héctor P.L. - My first mountain climb was at 11 years old. My father, my brother and I climbed Popocatépetl volcano. My father took me after I insisted a lot, despite having no prior experience in mountaineering. He bought some gear, researched the volcano, and took us on the adventure. Now, with all my experience, I think it was madness—my father knew nothing about mountains, and we ventured up with minimal equipment. We could have died! But incredibly, everything went well, and we summited a 5,400-metre volcano.
Y.M. - What about that climb made you dedicate yourself to the mountains?
H.P.L. - I was completely fascinated by the mountain ascent and felt an ambition to climb others. I loved it.
Y.M. - How did your parents and family react to your passion for such a high-risk adventure sport?
H.P.L. - There was no family controversy—my parents always supported me. I think my passion for mountains was so genuine that they simply encouraged me to pursue what drew me to this activity. They only cared about what the mountains gave me, ensuring I did it for pleasure. What was very important to them—and what they instilled in me from the start—was the necessity of preparation before an ascent. Preparation at all levels: researching and studying the mountain beforehand, equipping properly, and training before climbing, of course.
In truth, I could say my mother was the main source of this passion. An avid reader, she introduced me to books early on, especially adventure stories. Those tales filled my head with adventure. In fact, whenever I’ve doubted a new project, she’s always given me the final push.
Ultimately, both my parents were pivotal in my passion for mountains—thanks also to my father’s boldness in taking me up Popo at 11 with no prior experience and a lot of courage.
Y.M. - Did your parents ever imagine you’d go this far?
H.P.L. - I don’t think so. They cared about the happiness the mountains brought me, not the success I might achieve.
Y.M. - Have you done competitive climbing?
H.P.L. - No, I’ve never competed formally. I don’t have a competitive level in sport climbing or anything. I love everything about climbing and mountains, so I never specialised in one type. As you know, mountaineering doesn’t have competitions. The closest would be high-altitude races or marathons, but those never appealed to me.
What I do love is competing with myself through personal challenges. For example, here in Mexico, we’re lucky to have three great volcanoes over 5,000 metres (Popocatépetl, Iztaccíhuatl, and Pico de Orizaba). At 23, I set out to climb and descend all three in 24 hours, including travel time. I started at 2 a.m. from the base camp of Pico de Orizaba at 5,700 metres, summited in 2h 30, descended, drove to Iztaccíhuatl, climbed it, descended, drove to Popo, climbed and descended, finishing around 7 p.m.—17 hours total for all three volcanoes, with ~5,000 metres of cumulative elevation. This is the kind of challenge I adore! I set personal goals, especially timed ascents.
Another example: Nepal’s Ama Dablam (6,800m), famed as one of the world’s most beautiful peaks. Typically a four-day climb with three camps, I did it from base camp to summit—2,800m elevation—in 9h 30.
I have many such personal challenges, climbing major elevations in short times. These demand strategy, preparation, and training. The real thrill is the challenge of managing speed, strength, and rhythm. That’s my version of "competition"—against no one but myself.
Y.M. - How and how much do you train?
H.P.L. - My training relies heavily on cycling—both road and mountain biking. Unlike running, cycling lets you sustain effort over long periods. You can train for 8–10 hours covering 200 km, whereas running (which I also do, on trails) maxes out at ~3 hours.
Living in Mexico City, despite its sprawl, we have nearby sites at 3,800–4,500m or lower peaks with long hiking routes. My prep often involves 1–2 daily ascents or combining activities—e.g., biking from town to a refuge, then speed-climbing. This means 10–11-hour training days, ideal for my challenges and expeditions.
Y.M. - When did you gain international recognition, and what does it mean to you?
H.P.L. - As a mountaineer, I have two distinct facets:
- One is as a climber, tackling personal challenges—sometimes succeeding, sometimes not. Here, I’ve achieved first-class feats as a Mexican and Latin American alpinist. These include 8,000m peaks via difficult routes in 100% alpine style. For instance, I’ve climbed icefalls in Canada—a first for a Mexican—or the South Face of Shisha Pangma, which resonated across Latin America. I never sought recognition, but it’s been gratifying.
- My other role is as a guide, leading amateur climbers successfully. Through Ponce de León Expeditions, I offer global climbs and guide for European/American firms. Here, I’ve achieved things no other Mexican has, earning great prestige—even more than as a solo alpinist. For example, in 2000, I was hired by US firm Mountain Madness as their Everest guide. They could’ve hired anyone worldwide—yet chose me.
This was pivotal for my recognition. Being sought by international companies as a mountain guide, despite their own elite guides, has been deeply satisfying. As a guide, I’ve gained renown, with clients worldwide for expeditions.
Y.M. - Having climbed so many peaks, can you name three that are special and why?
H.P.L. - Certainly:
- Everest: Not technically hard, but I’ve summited three times. In ’96, I was the first Mexican to climb the North Face in a small, low-budget expedition without Sherpas. In 2000, I became the first Mexican to guide an Everest expedition. In 2002, I filmed the entire ascent for Discovery Channel as expedition cameraman.
- Aconcagua (Argentina), the Americas’ highest peak. I’ve climbed it 25 times, including a highly technical ascent of its 3,000m South Face (ice wall) with Andrés Delgado in alpine style—an unexpectedly gruelling adventure.
- Shisha Pangma (Tibet, 8,000m). In 1999, Andrés and I attempted the South Face in alpine style—no oxygen, Sherpas, or pre-set camps. We climbed 2,500m in 2.5 days, becoming the first and only Mexicans/Latin Americans to do so 100% alpine-style. The descent, planned for 1.5 days, took four—three without food or water due to no gas to melt snow. A true survival ordeal.
Y.M. - What do you feel upon summiting?
H.P.L. - It varies. Sometimes, the summit isn’t the main point. For me, the climb itself matters most. On Aconcagua’s and Shisha Pangma’s South Faces, I didn’t summit—my goal was scaling the wall. The process—your performance on a chosen route—is what I love.
Y.M. - How did mountain filming begin?
H.P.L. - Accidentally. In Kathmandu after guiding an expedition, a Discovery Channel team was researching an Everest documentary and needed a cameraman. A Sherpa I’d worked with recommended me. Despite my inexperience, they hired me for my climbing skills and trained me in Canada.
Y.M. - Is filming technically complex?
H.P.L. - The logistics change completely. You need climbers with audiovisual expertise. Extra weight (generators, solar panels) is essential, and cold slashes battery life to 1/5 normal. The climb revolves around capturing footage—sometimes delaying starts for lighting. It’s nothing like a normal ascent.
Y.M. - What inspired your breast cancer project, One Step, One Summit?
H.P.L. - Canadian filmmaker Ben Webster inspired me. He hired me to guide a Kilimanjaro climb with breast cancer survivors. Their resilience struck me, and I returned to Mexico determined to replicate it. Partnering with Fundación Cimab and Lumática Productions, we trained a group of brave women (many first-time climbers) and summited Pico de Orizaba, creating a hopeful documentary.
Y.M. - Next filming/mountaineering projects?
H.P.L. - Filming: Ascend Kilimanjaro (June 2012) with Fundación Alma, supporting breast cancer survivors. We’ll gather testimonies promoting life beyond survival.
Mountaineering: 24—climbing Everest, Yosemite’s El Capitan’s Nose, and Canada’s Slipstream (world’s longest icefall) in under 24 hours. Speed ascents fascinate me—they demand strategy and digging deep for strength.
Y.M. - Other sports passions?
H.P.L. - Cycling, especially road. I raced in my youth and still follow the Tour, Giro, and Vuelta.
Y.M. - Favourite book/film?
H.P.L. - Book: The Lost Steps (Carpentier) or The Red and the Black (Stendhal). Film: Apollo 13 or The Mission.
Y.M. - How do you see your future?
H.P.L. - Unchanged—someone pursuing goals not for the outcome but the growth they bring. Aiming to help others broaden horizons and believe in themselves.
