Scuba diving is one of the water sports where equipment maintenance is essential for both successful dives and ensuring your gear lasts for many years.
Care Tips
With proper maintenance and a bit of care, you can enjoy using your scuba equipment in perfect condition for years to come.
The only reason you'll need to replace it is when someone tempts you with the latest market innovations (likely more advanced) or simply because you fancy changing your underwater look.
But if you're the type who prefers to sport a decade-old wetsuit in perfect condition as if it were a badge of expert diver status, take note of our preservation tips and essential spares you shouldn't forget before diving.
Basic Maintenance
We typically dive in saltwater, and unfortunately, salt (a highly corrosive element) is responsible for most damage to all metal parts of our gear. Therefore, after every dive, it's crucial to rinse all equipment with fresh water. Make sure it's actually fresh - some domestic water supplies can be worse than seawater.
While this is the best maintenance, some parts require special attention. Let's review them:
- The Tank
Avoid surfacing with 0 atm pressure. This only allows water ingress leading to internal rust. Similarly, don't store it fully pressurised at 200 atm for extended periods - why make it work unnecessarily? Maintain about 30-50 atm pressure. When emptying, open the valve slowly to prevent internal condensation from the escaping pressurised air.
Every three years, conduct a hydraulic test (pressure test), and periodically perform visual inspections (scratches, dents, external rust signs...) with frequency depending on whether you live coastal or inland.
We agree these checks are annoying expenses, but besides increasing safety for tank fillers, they're vital for us too. Valves should turn smoothly: forcing them risks breaking the spindle or accidentally diving with a closed tank.
O-rings must be flawless to prevent leaks - we say "rings" because most modern tanks have adapters for DIN or universal connections, each with two O-rings that often get overlooked.
Occasionally remove the rubber boot, cleaning accumulated salt from both boot and tank body. Using a tank net prevents sliding in the BCD harness and protects against knocks in/out of water.
- The Regulator
This is the most critical part of our kit where safety largely depends. Needless to say, handle it extremely carefully, avoiding impacts or dirt that could misalign components or cause malfunction.
For any issues, visit a specialist workshop. To delay major servicing, thorough freshwater rinsing (preferably lukewarm to better remove salt) is essential, while always preventing water entering the high-pressure chamber or first stage.
Never forget the dust cap and avoid purging during cleaning. When disconnecting from the tank, always dry the cap thoroughly.
After reassembly, open the tank valve gently to prevent air surge damaging the high-pressure chamber. If your valve doesn't allow gradual opening, purge the regulator while turning.
Never attempt to disassemble the high-pressure chamber: only venture into the second stage to remove stones or sand (watch dragging regulators during shore entries).
Water ingress might indicate issues with the ambient pressure chamber, faulty seals, or damaged mouthpiece. Check for torn diaphragms, debris in exhaust valves, or perished mouthpieces. Only attempt replacing these elements; other repairs require specialist knowledge. Even if functioning perfectly, annual servicing is advisable (depending on dive frequency).
- The BCD
Most rinse the exterior, but how many actually flush the BCD interior with fresh water? Few, very few indeed.
Remember salt corrodes inside and out, so complete salt removal is essential. Sun-drying speeds the process but accelerates colour fading.
- When storing long-term, keep some air inside to prevent inner walls sticking.
- If your BCD auto-inflates constantly, likely the inflator mechanism needs cleaning or the spindle requires sewing machine oil lubrication.
- For air leaks, disassemble valves to inspect O-rings. If unsuccessful, submerge the inflated BCD to locate punctures.
Rare punctures in small holes can be repaired with "Aquasure" adhesive. Larger holes need patches reinforced with this miracle glue.
- The Wetsuit
Wetsuit care is simple: rinse in fresh water and dry in shade (sunlight degrades neoprene and fades colours). Pay special attention to zips - apply wax to prevent future issues (no need for Herculean efforts to remove your suit!). For tears, easy-to-use neoprene glue exists.
Always store completely dry to prevent mould. Check this dedicated neoprene care article.
- The Dive Knife
Even stainless steel blades oxidise without post-dive care. Remove any rust and apply petroleum jelly to prevent recurrence.
- Mask, Fins & Snorkel
For lightweight gear, freshwater rinsing and thorough drying before storage prevents moisture-induced mould.
Regarding masks: stuffing them in your bag bottom distorts the silicone skirt causing leaks. Use protective boxes to prevent deformation. Also, keep all silicone (especially white) away from sunlight to avoid yellowing.
- Weights
For weight belts, inspect quick-release buckles (rust, damage...). Integrated weights require checking Velcro straps to prevent sudden weight loss and uncontrolled ascents. Avoid banging weights - dents make adjusting weight distribution impossible.
- Dive Bag
Always rinse with fresh water, paying special attention to zips (attach straps for easier operation).
Pack delicate items like regulators or masks wrapped inside your wetsuit - external pockets offer poor protection. Most bags aren't waterproof and drain slowly, so protect your car boot lining unless you fancy replacing it.
Tools & Spares
Even non-mechanics can fix minor issues with appropriate tools or replacement parts.
Essential spares to always carry:
- O-rings in various sizes (they're cheap, so pack extras). Some regulators have spares in the dust cap. If not, try flipping a damaged ring - if that fails, your dive's cancelled.
- Carry complete spare mask straps and fin straps/buckles. Regulator mouthpieces can rupture (I've seen divers left holding pieces in their teeth) - you could swap with your octopus, but remember the retaining clip.
- Neoprene glue is handy (for neck/wrist/knee damage), though it takes 24 hours to cure.
Market multi-tools designed for dive gear include adjustable wrenches, screwdrivers, Allen keys etc. perfectly suited for regulators. For regulators specifically, use fixed-size wrenches to avoid thread damage from loose tools.
