Catalonia never ceases to amaze, offering countless corners where one can lose themselves for days amidst magnificent landscapes. This time we chose to visit the Catalan Cistercian Route, undoubtedly an unmissable option.
We began our journey at Santa Maria de Poblet, visiting the monastery located in the Conca de Barberà region. Situated between Vimbodí and L'Espluga de Francolí at the foot of the Prades mountains, it occupies a beautiful setting with abundant springs - making it ideal for hiking. The site is notable for its proximity to the extensive Poblet forest, with its rich, lush vegetation that was historically one of the monastery's many possessions.
The monastery stands out for its sobriety and austerity, featuring several noteworthy areas including the Abbot's Palace, chapter house, Royal Palace, gardens, and the cloister (with its remarkable upper cloister), not forgetting the church containing the royal tombs of the Crown of Aragon, most notably that of James I the Conqueror. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for good reason.
Today, 32 monks reside here, maintaining their monastic routine from 5am until 10pm when they retire to their cells. Some of the visitable areas are still used by the monks for their daily activities.
Continuing our journey, we arrived at Santes Creus, a village built around its namesake monastery. To access it from the Tarragona road to Pont D'Armentera, we crossed the Gaià river via a stone bridge built in 1549 by Abbot Valls (whose date and coat of arms remain visible on the left wall). At the bridge entrance stands a Gothic-style wayside cross (14th century) with an exquisitely carved base.
The Santes Creus Monastery rises in a secluded valley near the Gaià river, amidst a harmonious landscape of poplar groves and hazelnut trees alternating with vineyards and almond orchards surrounded by olive trees - a quintessentially Mediterranean setting. Wandering through this magnificent architectural complex is a marvel, remarkable for both its beauty and monumentality. Following the finest Cistercian models, it's terraced on the Gaià's left bank, surrounded by ancient monastic buildings that over time became dwellings forming the small village of Santes Creus.
After a full day's excursion, it was time to replenish our energy with a proper meal. We headed to Hostal del Senglar (Wild Boar Inn) in L'Espluga de Francolí. Beyond its warm hospitality, this establishment serves excellent cuisine, specialising in civets - particularly their notable wild boar stew.
We opted for a succulent "calçotada" - a typical feast of these lands best enjoyed between November and March when the star ingredient, "calçots" (a unique type of spring onion cultivated through a distinctive process in Valls), is in season.
We learned this tradition originated as a gathering of friends around a fire, perhaps recalling humanity's earliest roots. The festive atmosphere during preparation is what truly matters - the real spirit of "calçotades".
After an evening stroll, we rested before Sunday's explorations: Santa Maria de Vallbona monastery. As Catalonia's most important Cistercian nunnery with over eight centuries of continuous religious life, it's located in Urgell's southern part near Conca de Barberà.
This architectural complex, built and modified across different eras, possesses grandeur and splendour setting it apart from most Cistercian nunneries. The abbey church, largely constructed in the 13th-14th centuries, exemplifies the Romanesque-Gothic transition.
As all good things must end, the day slipped away unnoticed. We bid farewell to beautiful Spelunca (Latin for "cave", the name L'Espluga de Francolí bore since the mid-11th century). Our memories of active tourism, green meadows, unique locals and that distinctive regional aroma accompanied us home.
