It is a highly efficient technique for reaching inaccessible or hard-to-access locations quickly and safely. For this reason, it is a descent method practised in various extreme sports. Whether in mountaineering, hiking, canyoning, climbing, or caving, rappelling is a fundamental component of these adventure sports.
However, rappelling wasn’t always a sport. In fact, it’s a very ancient practice, with its first recorded use dating back to 1876, when French mountaineer Jean Charlet Straton performed the first descent using a "metal descender". Rappelling techniques have been widely used in military operations and rescue missions, both in mountainous and urban environments. It is undoubtedly an incredibly useful activity.
To set up a rappelling system, different patterns using various materials can be employed. To understand these rappelling archetypes, we’ll first outline the necessary equipment and then explain the different rappelling procedures.
Rappelling Equipment
Since rappelling systems vary, they may require different tools, but the following materials are almost always essential:
- Rope
- Flat webbing (to prevent rope wear)
- Carabiners (some with locks, others without)
- Harness
- Anchor sling
- Descender device
- Helmet
- Gloves
Some of these items are more precautionary than essential, but it’s best to be well-prepared for rappelling, as it remains an extreme sport requiring safety measures.
Not all these elements are necessary for every type of descent, so let’s now explore the different rappelling methods and how to execute them.
Rappelling Techniques
Rappelling techniques can be broadly categorised into three groups:
- Rappelling using body friction
- Rappelling with carabiner friction
- Rappelling with descender devices
These different categories require distinct materials and are used in varying situations or for different purposes. It’s important to remember that each technique involves specific expertise and requires practice, ideally under the guidance of an experienced instructor to demonstrate proper rope placements and other details. Below, we explain each one:
Body Rappel. The first category includes the following friction-based techniques:
- Arm Rappel: On less vertical surfaces, this technique only requires a rope draped over the shoulder and wrapped around the extended arms to control descent speed through friction, with the rope secured in one hand.
- Spanish Rappel (also called the Dulfer Rappel): The simplest rappelling system involves passing the rope between the legs, around the hips, over the opposite shoulder (crossing the chest), down the back, and under the arm for hand control. Watch out for loose hair!
Carabiner Rappel. The second category also involves simple rappelling with minimal equipment:
- Gramminger Rappel. This technique requires seven carabiners, including one locking 'D'-shaped carabiner, two opposed-gate carabiners, and four non-locking ones. Also known as the fireman’s rappel.
- Carabiner Brake Rappel. The rope is wrapped three times around the locked carabiner’s spine and secured to the harness with another carabiner. More wraps increase friction, slowing the descent.
Descender Rappel. In terms of safety, these are the most efficient rappelling methods and are widely used in both sports and rescue operations:
- Figure-Eight Rappel. Named after the key device—a metal figure-8 descender—this classic method was once a staple in climbing but has largely been replaced by more modern, efficient descenders.
- Pulley Rappel. Primarily used in caving, this method allows controlled descents in caves, canyons, and underground rivers by threading the rope in an 'S' shape through pulley descenders (with or without locks).
- Tubular Device Rappel. Offers higher friction coefficients than other techniques, requires minimal effort to control descent, and doesn’t kink the rope. Practical, user-friendly, and secure.
- Marimba Rappel. Common in caving for large vertical drops, this method uses resin-coated ropes and a bar-based system.
To practise these techniques safely, we recommend training with specialists who can guide you through each step for controlled and secure descents. Now that you’re better informed, why not try rappelling?
