The mention of Grand Zebrù will make the eyes shine of those who've read "From 0 to 8,000 metres" by Kurt Diemberger. For adventure sports enthusiasts, knowing that ski mountaineering competitions originate from these valleys and that ski stars often train here won't leave them indifferent.
History buffs will get chills finding fortifications at 3,500 m, remnants from the First World War. Everyone else will find good reasons for this itinerary too - like accessing terrain full of 3,000m peaks with excellent snow cover, perfect slopes for skiing in Italy, surrounded by a great network of mountain huts and excellent Italian atmosphere.
Two and a half days will suffice for an intermediate skier to climb two of Ortles-Cevedale's most characteristic peaks: one being Grande Zebra or Königspitze (3,859 m), named differently in Italian-speaking Valfurva or German-speaking Sulden (Solda) valley. The other is Cevedale, with its two nearby summits of 3,778 m and 3,766 m. With extra time, Pizzo Tressero, San Matteo, Monte Pasquale, Palon de la Mare or Rosole on one hand, or the alpine and cross-country ski resorts of Santa Caterina Valfurva or Bormio make excellent reasons to extend your stay.
The area is popular with local ski mountaineers, from nearby regions and neighbouring countries, so we'll easily find tracks along most routes. It's advisable to ask hut wardens about current conditions of described routes or alternatives.
Starting point: Forni Hut (2,178 m). Recommended approach: Via Milan, Lecco, Bormio and Santa Caterina Valfurva (1,737 m). From there, a paved road leads to Forni Hut.
Stage 1: Forni Hut (2,178 m)- Pizzini Hut (2,706 m) with 530m ascent
From the hut, head NNE ascending open terrain following tracks to Pizzini Hut. Alternative: Can include climbing Monte Pasquale (3,559 m) via Cedec Glacier (Vedretta), ascending Pasquale Col (3,431 m) then the summit. Check glacier conditions at the hut.
Stage 2: Pizzini Hut (2,706 m) -Grand Zebrù (3,859 m) with 1,153m ascent
Grand Zebrù is the region's iconic peak, making its ascent highly prestigious. We'll climb open terrain to the base of the couloir leading to Bottleneck Pass (Paso di Bottiglia). From there, continue on foot through the couloir to the pass (3,295 m) then ascend Grand Zebrù's ESE face to the summit marked by a large cross. Descent: Same route as ascent.
In good conditions, skiing down from the summit is feasible. The section below the summit has a 45° slope for about 40m, followed by 550m of 35°-40° slopes and the couloir at 40°-45°. The ESE face has high risk with a 300m void beneath - narrow for the couloir.
Stage 3: Pizzini Hut (2,706 m)- Mt Cevedale (3,778 m) with 1,072m ascent
From the hut head towards Cevedale Pass (3,266 m), reached after overcoming moderately steep west-facing slopes, then continue to nearby Casati Hut (3,268 m). From there, ascend SE towards the col between Cevedale's two summits. From the col, climb the main summit (3,778 m) then via an easy but airy ridge to NE Cevedale (3,766 m).
Cevedale offers stunning panoramic views across the Alps - from its summit you can see Mont Blanc or Austria's Grossglockner, plus most intermediate massifs. Descent: Retrace your ascent route to Pizzini Hut then to Forni where your car awaits.
Alternative: Possible descent from Monte Cevedale via Cedec Glacier (Vedretta) directly to Pizzini Hut. This less-travelled route has significant crevasses on the glacier.
