Climbing is a sport of personal challenge with a wide variety of disciplines: sport climbing, traditional climbing, and – why not? – ice climbing. How does one climb ice? Obviously, besides standard climbing gear, you'll need specialised equipment. Let's explore what's required.
To practice ice climbing, you'll need prior experience in other forms of climbing as it's technically demanding – without familiarity with equipment and techniques, progress will be nearly impossible. You'll also require specialist gear including ice axes (held in hand and planted into the ice for ascent) and crampons (attached to boot soles for secure footing).
You'll encounter different wall types – soft snow and pure ice formations. Experienced climbers often prefer frozen waterfalls, but varied terrain demands different techniques for both ascent and descent.
Equipment
Having all necessary personal and safety gear is crucial. Primarily, wear proper insulated, waterproof yet breathable clothing – mountain cold and dampness are formidable adversaries. Essential hardware includes: mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, and gaiters (waterproof covers for the boot-trouser junction).
Critical safety equipment includes: specialised snow ropes, ice screws, stakes, and rock anchors (for mixed terrain). Naturally, you'll need slings, carabiners, harnesses, shock absorbers, locking devices, and descenders.
Another key consideration: the lead climber must be sufficiently experienced to set the route. Ideally, they should know the area well to provide proper guidance, ensuring smooth operation.
Belay stations are crucial for safety at each pitch's end, to be dismantled post-ascent. On ice, screws must be spaced adequately – why? Because ice typically fractures in large sections.
Setting up requires placing temporary protection (usually ice axe anchors) before establishing the main anchor. A triangular configuration works best – either with three screws or two screws plus an axe. Mixed terrain (ice + rock) offers ideal belay points, though you'll need rock screws. Any ice ledge can serve as an anchor point, provided carabiners aren't placed too near the edge.
When belaying, always use dynamic knots (static knots pose dangers). When leading the next pitch, place immediate protection to prevent falls – preferably using a shock-absorbing rope.
With these recommendations, proper preparation, and guidance from climbing course graduates or experts, you'll be ready for your ice climbing adventure.
