Mont Blanc has no easy ski routes, but the Traverse of the Four Thousanders, despite its relatively high technical level, is an elegant and direct route supported by the l'Aiguille du Midi cable cars. This way, the Col de Midi becomes accessible after a short descent from the upper station of the l'Aiguille du Midi cable car.
This route precisely charms as a traverse that takes backcountry skiers through legendary mountaineering spots like Col du Midi, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit, Col de la Brenva, or Mont Blanc itself. From the summit (in good conditions) or slightly lower, a long descent leads to Grand Plateau, Grands Mulets Refuge (3051m), and the mid-station of l'Aiguille du Midi at Plan de l'Aiguille (2233m) or Chamonix (or the mid-station if snow is insufficient).
The Challenge
A trained/acclimatised group may complete the entire journey in one day by taking Chamonix's first morning cable car. However, several staffed refuges allow splitting the ascent per group's pace. Note that between Cosmiques Refuge and Grands Mulets, only Refuge Vallot (4362m) offers semi-reliable shelter. Vallot is accessible if opting for the Bosses Ridge (summer's normal route) instead of the recommended north-face descent.
From Grands Mulets to Plan d'Aiguille, the route descends to Jonction (named for the confluence—or collision—of glacial basins), notorious for crevasses, followed by a long partially ascending section where ski skins may be advisable depending on snow/skier conditions. For single-day traverses, time management is critical—mind Plan d'Aiguille cable car's closing hours.
If weather, snow, or other factors prevent the 4000m traverse, ascending a peak like Mont Blanc du Tacul remains a season-defining objective. Terrain is highly alpine—never underestimate this mountain. Descending Vallée Blanche (heavily trafficked yet hazardous) completes the climb. This alternative won't leave you indifferent.
Precautions
The described traverse and alternative route cross high-mountain terrain where mistakes are unforgiving. Many groups hire guides. If self-guided, verify route conditions when booking refuges. Attempt only with stable snow and fair weather forecasts.
Bad weather dramatically increases dangers. Most terrain is glacial, with abundant crevasses.
Essential high-mountain/glacial gear: rope, harness, ice axe, crampons, ice screws, crevasse rescue kit—plus standard ski-mountaineering equipment.
The traverse's altitude makes prior high-elevation activity advisable for optimal performance. If travelling directly from Spain, we recommend a 3000m traverse in the Pyrenees or Sierra Nevada days beforehand.
